Caribbean cruise - Day 7

Day 7



February 27 – Costa Rica

     We arrived into Puerto Limon and shortly thereafter disembark for our ride out to the countryside. an adventure in itself as after several miles the remainder of the trip is over rutted dirt roads made all Our destination today is the Veragua Rain Forest Research Park. The ride out to the center is quite the more interesting by the everyday rainfall. Once in the rainforest, however, we manage to dodge the rain drops which greet us and head into the forest via aerial tram. We are greeted by several Collared aracari, a member of the toucan family. Though not visable, the howler monkeys made their presence known with their guttural calls. Upon our return to the top of the tram, we found one of our favorite Costa Rican birds, the Montezuma’s oropendola. Sounding more like a tropical instrument than a bird, the gurgling call seems to typify the essence of the Rain Forest. It was about this time when the forest started liviinto ng up to its name…..the deluge struck with torrential rains falling on an already saturated landscape. Fortunately for us, we were able to retreat several of the museum buildings which housed the collection of native reptiles and amphibians. We were introduced to several of Costa Rica’s brilliantly colored poisonous frogs. Later as we walked the trails, we found a number of these finger-nail sized amphibians along the path. Their bright red color served as a warning to all would-be predators, “Don’t mess with me!” I asked about the best chance to find and photograph native parrots and was told to be patient. “Wait until you return to the ship, and then look into the trees around the docks”. Sure enough, after looking for less than 10 minutes , a flock of 5 – 6 Crimson-fronted parakeets flew into the trees, loudly announcing their arrival. Before long, it was time to reboard the vessel, however. Our Caribbean adventure would be climaxed by a two day sail back to Ft. Lauderdale. We’ve been thrilled to find so many great birds and chances to photograph them on a “non-birding” cruise. We’ll look forward to visiting these tropical birding hot-spots in the future.

Panama Canal

Day 6


February 26

We arrived at the entrance to the Panama Canal on the Caribbean side at Colon, Panama early in the morning of the 26th. As we headed out onto the deck of the ship, the skies opened up as is generally the case here in Panama, sending us all back to our cabins for out rain gear. As we exited back out onto the deck, the most remarkable site for me was not necessarily the canal locks sitting in front of us, but rather the 9 Magnificent frigatebirds flying overhead. Naturally, this is the take of a birder, and I don’t mean to downplay the impressive nature of the canal. But when you’re hoping to see some frigates during the course of your cruise and you are suddenly confronted with 9 of them flying in a close range……well, that’s what we live for.

We passed through the locks and onto Gatun Lake where we disembarked and headed out onto the lake for an eco-cruise of the large inland lake which connects the eastern and western locks of the canal. On the bus ride to the docks in Colon, we stopped for a photo-op of first a sloth and then a mantled howler monkey. We hadn’t seen either since last year’s trip to Costa Rica, so it was a pleasant bonus to get these two mammals. On the lake itself, the avian life was somewhat of a disappointment with a Snail kite being the only new bird to add to our list. Back at the area where we docked, however, we did get some nice new birds for the trip. Great kiskadees, Tropical kingbird, Yellow-throated euphonia, and our first Great-tailed grackles topped the list.

From here, we travelled by bus to Christoffel where the ship had docked to await our return. Tomorrow, it’s on to Costa Rica, a paradise we are anxious to revisit after our splendid trip there last year.

Pelagics

Day 5 - February 26
At Sea - Off the coast of Barranquilla, Colombia

     Although we are far enough out to sea that land is not visible, we keep our eyes and binoculars trained in hopes of a pelagic or two. As we ate lunch, we noticed something fly by on the starboard side of the ship. I dropped my knife and fork and sped down to the 4th deck to get my camera, not quite sure of what it was I was hopefully going  to photograph. When I arrived on the top deck, no birds were seen, but walking around to the port side, I found a mature and several immature Masked boobies flying and diving just off the ships wake. The birds stayed with us for some time and the combination of their aerobatics and some strange guy with a camera frantically snapping away drew a pretty nice crowd of spectators to the rails. It was quite a sight to see these pelagics stoop and dive from our level on the 9th deck and plunge headlong into the boat’s wake in search of their quarry. Before long, the birds departed, but not before giving me a few nice opportunities to capture the images of this beautiful diver which for most of its life is far from land and far from this birder’s lens.

Aruba

February 25
Orenjastad, Aruba

      We cruised into Oranjestad early in the morning of February 25th. We’re excited about today’s shore excursion because we will be driving a rented jeep into the Aruba “outback”. Being off the beaten path, we hope to pick up some new species for the list and for the camera. As we pull into port, we find a good number of magnificent frigatebirds flying overhead….a good omen for the day to come. Shortly after docking, we are on our way to the jeeps and a day of “off-roading”. Our first stop is a large volcanic outcrop which provides us with a fine view of the surrounding countryside. As we mount the formation, we are greeted by a medium sized green iguana peering out from a crevice in the rocks. A couple of Caribbean parakeets fly in and perch nearby, but the lighting is not great and the birds decide not to stick around for me to get a better vantage point. Shortly thereafter, however, we are told of a pair of Burrowing owls which are hanging out in a nearby tree as if waiting for us to come and take their picture. They are indeed fine specimens and wait patiently as I move about to get the best light. We are on a schedule, however, and it’s time to move on.

     Our next stop is at the once famous Natural Bridge which 4 years ago fell to the forces of erosion. There are many birds around, but wouldn’t you know it….they are mostly House sparrows! Can’t seem to get away from these LBJ’s (birder for “Little Brown Jobs”) no matter where in the world we travel. Back into the jeeps and onto some bumpy riding. The landscape is stark and barren until we reach the oasis which is the Alto Vista Chapel. Locals venture by foot for miles to reach this little church, and there are a number of folks inside the tiny structure at prayer when we arrive. Outside, I find a divine vision of my own….the wonderful oriole of Aruba, the Troupial. I could watch this beauty all day, but again, we have to stick to our timetable and it’s off again. Next stop along the rugged jeep trail is the California Lighthouse, named for a ship which sank and whose demise precipitated the building of this light. At the lighthouse, I find a small dove which proves to be a life bird for us, the Eared dove. Unfortunately, it’s time to head back to the ship and prepare for sail. It’s been a great first exposure to this beautiful Caribbean Isle and we look forward to revisiting it in the future when we hope to have more time to devote to the local avifauna.

Curacao

Wednesday, February 24

Willamstadt, Curacao

      We arrive at the port of Willemstadt in the early afternoon and prepare for our tour by bus of the countryside of Curacao. The day began slightly overcast, but this afternoon is sunny and a good day for photos. Our first stop is at a museum which used to be the home of a freed slave. I ask the docent about the birds on site and she says there aren’t many. We walk outside and are greeted by a brilliant Yellow warbler and a fine Palm warbler. Out in front of the main building, a lovely Banaquit is busily foraging along a plaintain tree.  The bird is very cooperative and barely gives us a second glance as a number of us ease in closer for a better shot.  Across the street, I find a nice parrot, but the lighting is such that I have trouble identifying it. After downloading it onto the computer, however, I find it to be a Caribbean parakeet. We add a Bahamian mockingbird and a White-winged dove before reboarding the bus and moving on to Christoffel National Park. The main object of our visit here is to visit the sea cave. It’s a bit of a climb down into the grotto but it’s well worth the effort. I can’t help but think of Italy’s Blue Grotto while down in the cave as the surf come pounding in and rushes up to our feet. Climbing out of the ravine, we find that the picnic grounds have several bird feeders which are attracting a fine variety of colorful birds…..Bananaquits, Black-headed grassquits and Rufous-collared sparrows are among the visitors.

     Moving on, we arrive at a beautiful sparsely used beach. From the cliffs above, we spot our first frigate bird flying overhead. We find a bright yellow finch which we later identify as a Saffron finch and a nest reminiscent of the oropendola nests we first encountered in Peru. The birds, however are not oropendola, but a brand new species for us, the Troupial. (We learned that the Troupial is a bird which occupies the nests of other birds and does not build its own. So….to whom does this nest really belong? Apparently, the nests are those of the Yellow oriole) We also have seen several Caracaras (which here in Curacao are known as Warawaras) which seem to be .quite prevalent in the area. For a trip which is not really a birding trip, we seem to be doing quite nicely and have picked up several nice life birds and corresponding decent photos. What a way to start our cruise.

Half Moon Cay

Monday, February 22

Half Moon Cay
      We arrive at Half Moon Cay, an island in the Antilles privately owned by Holland America early in the morning. Our first day on tour is a rainy one, but the rain is sporadic and allows us to take the hike we had planned for with our guide “Friendly Frank”.

While billed as an eco-hike, it is more of a botany experience than an exploration of the bird life on the island. That’s OK, because we do enjoy the hike and learn a great deal about the plants and their medicinal uses. Part of the tour brings us up to some old ruins and we find the tamron tree from which the fr;uits used to make A-1 Steak sauce is made…..very tasty! Asked about birds, Franks tells me to wait until we get to the barbecue provided. The birds love to scavenge the picnic grounds in search of a few morsels and we are sure to see some birds of inerest there. Indeed, we do come across our first Banaquits, our first Bahamian mockingbirds and Ground doves. The birds are really fine looking and are certainly plentiful, but diversity is lacking on this island or at least at this crowded spot. I’m sure the rain has not helped either, but all the same, here we are in the Carribean and we are ready for some new spectacular birds.

Off to the Caribbean

Saturday, February 20
Hollywood, FL

     It’s the day prior to our departure for the cruise to the Panama Canal and other points of interest along the way. We decided to head down to Fort Lauderdale a day early and avoid the last minute rush. As a nice by-product of this plan, we’ll bird a few spots recommended in Bill  Pranty's book, A Birder's Guide to Florida. Our first stop after checking in at the Comfort Inn is the Anne Kolb Nature Center. This is part of the West Lake Park where in the past the Smooth-billed ani has been found. The park is a very nice facility, but on this day not all that birdy. We hike along the boardwalk which winds through the mudflats, but there are few waders and fewer songbirds. The mainstay of the area today is the Boat-tailed grackles and White ibis. Being a Saturday, there are many local folks taking advantage of this fine day and the activity may have served to limit the numbers of birds. There are two sites located across the street from one another, but neither provides the birds we were hoping for.

     Our next stop is further west along Sterling Ave called Brain Piccolo Park. This is supposed to be a “hot spot” for burrowing owls and this one lives up to its reputation. In spite of being a facility which is primarily soccer, baseball, and cricket fields, areas are roped off and flagged where the owls are nesting. Thankfully, people who use the park seem to respect the space allotted to the owls and we find a good number of burrows. Few have activity, however, but one in particular is occupied by a cooperative bird which is more than happy to pose for us. As we photograph the owl, we find a number of Monk parakeets and other non-native parrots flying overhead. A Loggerhead shrike also is nearby and gives us some nice looks. We should have come here in the first place! It’s getting late in the day and we decide to call it quits, heading back to the motel to prepare for our departure tomorrow morning.